12/17/2011Provided by Citysearch -
Chef Duke Locicero has a real ""way"" with Italian food, especially veal. I never thought I would ever say this (heavy sigh) but his Paneed Veal is better than my (family recipe handed down through my Caprise great-grandmother) veal. Chef Duke obviously uses milk-fed baby whiteveal, pounds each piece to soft perfection and applies the ideal seasoning, wash, bread crumbs, etc., to achieve heaven moist with olive oil. Chef Duke's Veal Marsala is worthy of every possible accolade: bursting with sliced mushrooms, sultry wine and NOT TOO SWEET, which, sadly, is the downfall of most Marsala sauces. The various pasta served with each veal dish is sublime. Chef Duke maintains an incredible menu offering a wide array of steak, beef, veal, duck, fish and other seafood. The menu prices reflect the excellence of the types, grades and/or cuts of the various ingredients; in other words, one cannot serve duck or milk-fed baby white veal on an ""all you can eat"" buffet. The restaurant decor is a marinara of old New Orleans bordello and 50's era Mafioso: an amalgam of fine, new fixtures and dark, curtained eating alcoves and small rooms. I doubt more than one out of any one hundred people are qualified to have an opinion on a chef and an establishment of this caliber. For the ninety-nine meandering amongst the droves, I say ""thank you"" for leaving the choice food for me.