04/03/2009Provided by Citysearch -
My friend and I went to Mado and had a wonderful evening. We found out from our waiter that the husband and wife team that own and run the place are from two of my favorite NYC restaurants: he from the Park Avenue Cafe (63rd / Park) and her from Grammercy Tavern (20th / West of Park). With that provenance, I had high expectations.
Mado is no Grammercy, nor is it the Park Avenue Cafe. But it does not pretend to be. But the food is excellent, and their former bosses should be proud.
I really enjoyed my meal - especially because I prefer simply yet elegantly prepared continental food. The Charcuterie plate to start was three very different pates. All excellent, and served with a home made mustard and pickled fennel. The Spaghetti Carbonara was rich (but not too) and delicious. The chef used a duck egg as a foundation for the sauce which provided a fullness to the dish that really made a huge difference. The roast pig was fatty where it was supposed to be but the lean portion was not dry and the pork's richness was offset nicely with chick peas, arugula and some kind of sauce that I couldn't quite place, but it totally worked.
One other thing: Although I usually require more salt (because I love salt), I never felt like I really needed it during this meal. It was surprising to me.
DESSERT. Just get the short breads. Light as a feather and sweet as can be. Don't even get me started on the chocolate cream pie!!!!