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1520 W Linden StRiverside, CA 92507
From Business: Rescue Rooter provides the Inland Empire area with prompt, professional plumbing services - Guaranteed. We require background checks and drug tests on all employees…
23571 Sunnymead Ranch PkwyMoreno Valley, CA 92557
From Business: When you need a plumber now, call Emergency Response Plumbing & Drain in Moreno Valley, California. We provide emergency leak repair as well as toilet and water hea…
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I called WRENCH Re-Pipe after going through a major disaster with another plumbing company (the name of which will remain undisclosed because they admitted fault). I had heard about WRENCH Re-pipe and saw their excellent reviews. These I can only confirm. The service technician came the next day, perfectly on time. Following an examination of the foundation of the house and specific areas that I suspected to contain moisture he examined the sewer system with a video camera and checked the water pipes. Not only was I charged one-third of the price of the other company, I got all my questions answered and all concerns were addressed. The technician was highly competent, efficient, and professional. In contrast to the plumber of the other company who neither recorded the film nor wrote a report, the written report and the video recording were sent to me via e-mail that same day. Most important, unlike the other company, WRENCH Re-Pipe was honest. When looking at an expensive repair, it’s very important to be able to believe your technician. In summary, the service provided by WRENCH Re-Pipe was outstanding and priced well. I highly recommend this company.
I called Tonkin because they contract w/ my water heater manufacturer for direct billing on warranty repairs. They were my 2nd choice as I had been jerked around by another "contract" plumber (Hanley/Plumbing 1 -- do not use them!), but we've used Tonkin for other things in the past with good results too. Tonkin came out the following morning at the time they said they'd be here (shocking!!), and replaced not only the part that the mfr had recommended (thermocouple) but the thermostat too, as he said that was more likely to be causing our problem. So far, so good. No charge to us and we have happily been loving our warm showers ever since. BTW, the plumber did not bad mouth our water heater or the mfr at all, even though there are horror stories all over the internet about this particular unit. He was very polite and diplomatic about the whole thing.
Our rented Condo in Riverside recently had an in ground leak i.e. under the living room floor/cement. We called several plumbers, who were either too expensive or estimated a lengthy time to complete the job. We finally called Rick. He understood our dilemma and gave us an estimate on what it would take to get the job done. He was at the site within 30 minutes and completed the job in approximately three hours without any huge surprises or delays. We highly recommend Rick for all your plumbing needs.
If your toilet is losing water, the problem can usually be quickly identified by taking a look inside the tank.
Under the tank's lid, you'll see a few items:
To understand what could be going awry in your toilet, it's best to first know what happens with each of these items. When you flush the toilet, the handle pulls on a lever attached to the flapper's chain. The flapper then lifts up and lets the fresh water in the tank flow into the bowl.
As the water drains, the float drops to the bottom of the tank, which triggers another lever. This lever turns on the pump, and begins to fill the tank up with fresh water. The pump is turned off when the float reaches the top of the tank again. The water should not go past the top of the overflow tube.
An old or damaged flapper is one of the most likely culprits behind a running toilet. The flapper needs to create a tight seal so water doesn't leak down into the bowl. If water is slowly seeping past the plug, the float will eventually be lowered enough to trigger the pump to turn on.
To replace the flapper:
Flappers are generally pretty universal, so the biggest thing you'll need to take note of is the size. Older toilets generally have a 2-inch outlet valve diameter, while newer ones more likely have a 3-inch outlet valve diameter.
The resting place of your float is key here. If the float naturally rises above the overflow tube, the pump won't turn off until the water reaches that position. Then, water will go down the overflow tube, lowering the water level in the tank, starting the process over again. To solve this, simply readjust the rod so the float's resting place is below the overflow tube.
When the toilet isn't being flushed, the chain leading to the flapper shouldn't be too tight. This could be lifting the flapper enough to let water through. Check the flapper position and the chain and adjust as needed so the flapper shuts tight.